There are several situations where a warranty does not cover specific areas of hardwood. Read below to find out which ones.
- Gapping – caused by changes with seasons or relative humidity within the home. Top Gun Restoration has no control over the environment and can’t warranty gapping. However, we recommend installing a steam humidification system if you don’t have one already.
- Scratching, dents or dings – these items are considered normal wear and tear
- Dull Finish Appearances – Gloss reduction happens over time and is not a defect. Use of wet Swiffers or steam vacuums are not recommended and will cause the finish to dull quicker. Only clean your hardwood as per manufacturers recommendations.
- Fading, Color & Color Changes – all hardwood will undergo color changes over time when exposed to light (direct or indirect). Differences in color from one board to the next is natural as no two pieces of hardwood flooring are alike. Staining of hardwood falls within this category and no two pieces of hardwood take stain the same way.
- Buckling, Cupping, Crowning and Tenting of hardwoods caused by water damage. Although your floor has a protective coating, it does not stop water or pet urine from entering between the boards. The best method to prevent this is to clean up any spills or mishaps immediately.
HARDWOOD FLOORING & REFINISHIG EDUCATION
Engineered Wood Flooring
Also called mass timber, composite wood, man-made wood or manufactured board, includes a range of derivative wood products which are manufactured by binding or fixing the strands, particles, fibers, or veneer or boards of wood, together with adhesives, or other methods of fixation to form the composite material. Boards vary in size and can range upwards of 64 x 8 feet and can be of any thickness from a few inches to 16 inches or more. These boards are manufactured to precise specifications which are tested to meet national or international standards. They are made from sawmill scraps and other wood waste, bamboo and other materials.
Top Gun DOES NOT refinish Engineered Wood due to it having a very thin layer of wood. Some flooring stores may tell you the top layer is thick enough to be refinished; however, Top Gun will NEVER refinish an Engineered Hardwood. This is mainly because Engineered Hardwood is a floating floor – meaning that it is not attached to the floor. Indicators of this are, the floor moves, bounces or depresses under your feet. Floating floors cannot be sanded and refinished as they will bounce and move when the sanding machines are put on them, which doesn’t allow us to have a stable platform to sand which has a high probability of sanding through the thin layer or wood and into the backing which isn’t able to be finished.
Hardwood Flooring (Two Types)
1) Prefinished Hardwood flooring that has been finished – sanded, stained and coated with polyurethane – in a factory with controlled conditions. Once you receive the prefinished hardwood, you only need to cut and nail it to the subfloor, and it is done. Prefinished flooring is a factory-finished, and thus each board has been finished individually with sprayed-on coats of polyurethane. The boards are often baked with Aluminum Oxide to create an extremely hard acrylic finish. Because each board is finished individually, this creates a beveled edge along each side of the board. This creates a floor that is not totally flat, and each board will have a visible line in between them; and
2) Unfinished Hardwood flooring is raw hardwood and must first be installed and then sanded and refinished on site, there are no lines in between the boards, and you will get a flat, smooth floor. Prefinished (or factory finished) vs. Site Finished Wood has no impact on the structure, thickness or integrity of the wood. “Prefinished” simply means that it was finished in a factory under controlled conditions prior to installation.
Prefinished Hardwood flooring and Unfinished Hardwood flooring (or site finished) can be refinished. Top Gun uses the same equipment and process to refinish both Prefinished and Site Finished Hardwood flooring. However, sanding Prefinished Wood is a bit more challenging and takes longer and several different sanding pads using different grits to remove the Aluminum Oxide from the hardwood. Sandpaper grit relates to the roughness of the sandpaper. We start the process with a heavy grit sandpaper and work our way down to a smoother grit to remove small imperfections. This process also removes the beveled edge along each side of Prefinished Hardwoods, which will change the overall look of the boards.
If you have a Prefinished Hardwood flooring, Top Gun requires you to sign a “Release of Liability” acknowledging you understand the boards will not look exactly the same as they did prior to us starting the refinishing process. There may be remaining micro-bevels because we can’t sand that deep and at other times, the bevel may totally disappear. We may have to use filler, which is standard; however, it may not bond to the micro-bevel as it does to hardwood which may show cracking in the future. We will then add a color match putty which may appear to be a crack.
Matching Existing Hardwood Flooring, Color and Sheen
Unfinished Hardwood flooring can be refinished. This is a common practice and less expensive than replacing your existing hardwoods. If Unfinished Hardwood flooring has been water damage or minimum cupping, refinishing is the best solution. The damaged hardwood flooring can be cut out and then new Unfinished Hardwood laced in the area to match the dimensions and grade of the existing hardwood. When this is performed, Top Gun performs a sand and refinish of the entire area throughout the home on a specific level so there is consistency with color and sheen throughout the area. The reason we refinish the entire area is because it is impossible to match the existing color and sheen of the hardwood due to several variables, such as, UV Fading, age of floor, wear of floor and existing finish. If only the damaged section was refinished, it would stand out like a sore thumb and be very noticeable.
If we are refinishing your hardwood floor due to an insurance claim, many insurance companies will only pay for areas that are continuous, meaning – if there is a natural break between rooms or separate rooms separated by a transition strip, or a door – they normally will not pay for that area because it will be considered another area. We see this a lot in homes where two different hardwood areas are separated by a different type of flooring. Although not considered continuous by the insurance company, it is possible you may see both areas from a specific point in the home. In these cases, you will more than likely see a slight difference in the color or sheen. If this is something you are concerned about, Top Gun can refinish both areas; however, it would be an additional cost to you unless you can convince your insurance company to include that area in the claim and be done as well. Top Gun is required to follow your insurance guidelines; however, we will represent your best interest and restoration of your home and try to include it in the claim if it’s a gray area.
Polyurethanes is a polymer composite that is applied to the hardwood to act as a shield for your wood floors. There are two types; 1) Water-based which is an easier application, dries quicker, has a low volatile organic compound (VOC) content and less expensive; and, 2) Oil-based which is a tougher application, longer drying time, has a higher VOC content and more expensive. It helps protects the wood from scratches and spills that come with everyday life and provide the type of sheen to your floors.
Sheen – There are typically 3 levels of hardwood floor finish sheens within the industry: Satin, Semi-gloss; Glossy. Currently the most popular and stylish sheen is a satin finish, which has around 40% luster. Luster is determined by how much light is reflected off the floor from a 60-degree angle (consistent with how the floors are viewed while someone is standing on them). The glossier you go, the more light reflects off the floor, which in turn shows more dirt/dust as well as imperfections in the floor. It is also important to understand that different hardwoods species will produce different sheen levels. Natural wood or patina will produce subtle variances in the sheen level, which is caused by open vs. closed pore woods.
Wear and Tear – The application of Polyurethane is intended to protect hardwood floors from wear and tear; however, all flooring will experience scratches and shows signs of wear over time. Moving furniture across the floor and pets are the most common culprits of getting scratches in your floor. That is why Top Gun recommends placing pads underneath every table, chair and sofa leg. This assists with preventing movement directly against the floor resulting in scratches and gouges. Although dogs and cats don’t intentionally or deliberately scratch your floors, they do have claws which can cause scratches in the surface. Placing rugs or floor runners in their usual pathways will help them navigate the hardwood surface; however, there is no guarantee your floor will not get scratches.
Colorado and the surrounding mountain states are among the most challenging regions for all wood products because of our extremely dry climate. The concerns of relative humidity control have been addressed by all major wood flooring manufacturers and are clearly documented by them as well as the National Wood Flooring Association. The following are important points to consider:
- It is the responsibility of the homeowner to keep the relative humidity within a constant and
acceptable range. Consideration of an appropriate humidification system should be given when a home is designed, or when hardwood flooring is added to an existing home. Top Gun recommends if you don’t have a humidification system, it is imperative to install one if you are adding hardwood floors to your home. Otherwise, if you can’t create an environment with relative humidity, manufacturers will not warranty their product if there is splitting or cracking in the planks.
- Experts differ slightly on the range they feel is the most appropriate, but a consensus would be
between 30% and 40% relative humidity. Any in-home environmental conditions at the low end of or below this range will likely result in drying and cracking to some extent in most wood species. Without additional humidification, in-home relative humidity can drop below 15% during the heating season because our Colorado winters are so dry.
- Even if the atmosphere is generally controlled within this range, there will still be some
movement as the seasons change and the relative humidity moves up or down.
- Wood is a natural product and its limits must be respected. Extremely low humidity has a
profound effect on properly manufactured and installed wood flooring. Manufacturers do not consider some plank separation or cracking to be defects that would be covered under their warranty.
- Engineered wood flooring is more stable than solid wood flooring and will not shrink or expand
to the same degree. However, it is still an all-wood product that will react to swings in humidity.
- Solid wood floors generally will expand and contract more than engineered floors resulting in
larger gaps between the flooring boards during dry times of the year. This means your boards will shrink and expand during the year. If the boards shrink, you will see larger gaps between the boards at different times throughout the year. However, once additional humidity returns to the air, these gaps generally disappear. Therefore, we recommend an in-home humidifier to assist with controlling the atmosphere.
- Extremely dry conditions (those below 30%) will result in gaps between solid wood planks. The
size of the gaps will depend on the size of the planks. The wider the plank, the wider the gap.
- Extremely dry conditions (those below 30%) will also result in gaps between Engineered Wood
planks. However, they will not be as wide. Extremely dry conditions may also result in cupping of engineered planks. (Dry cupping is caused when the top of the board is dryer than the bottom.)
- Extremely dry conditions (those below 30%) may also result in cracks and checking in the surface
of both engineered and solid planks. These are not considered defects and are not covered under manufacturer’s warranty.
Wood is a natural product, containing variations in color, decoration and grain. Overwood/underwood is the difference in height between floorboards. Some overwood/underwood and gaps are a natural occurrence in wood flooring. Small gaps can be filled with appropriate color match filler but may show gaps with expansion and contraction of the hardwood. All wood floor installations must follow NWFA (National Wood Flooring Association, www.nwfa.org) or NOFMA (National Oak Flooring Manufactures Association, www.nofma.org) guidelines. SOLID WOOD FLOORING MUST BE NAILED OR STAPLED OR GLUED DOWN OVER AN APPROPRIATE WOOD SUBFLOOR AS PER NWFA GUIDELINES.
Prior to installation of any hardwood flooring product, we must determine that the job-site environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or exceed all standards and recommendations of the construction and materials industries.
A Clean, Sub floor must be scraped and sanded, broom cleaned, free of wax, grease, paint, oil and other debris. Subfloor must be smooth. Hardwood flooring isn’t installed over particle or chipboard and there may be a required subfloor thickness for the hardwood flooring to be installed. The subfloor must be free of moisture and can’t exceed a certain percentage on a moisture meter based on the hardwood manufacturer. Specific hardwood flooring may require a moisture barrier or underlayment. Unfortunately, many times the subfloor’s condition can’t be analyzed until the existing floor has been removed. Top Gun Restoration will evaluate the subfloor prior to installing new flooring. If the subfloor isn’t in the proper condition, it may be necessary for Top Gun to bring the subfloor up to par in order to accept the new floor. If this occurs, it will be an unforeseen expense and must be paid for by the customer or their insurance company.
Accumulation Period – each manufacturer states a specific accumulation period for their flooring product. This can be as little as 24 hours and upwards of 3-weeks. This will allow flooring to acclimate to room conditions. Top Gun will always adhere to the recommended Accumulation period and it may require the flooring to be broken up into small lots and stored in the room where is to be installed.
The installation site should have consistent room temperature of 60-70-degree F for a minimum of 5 days prior and always after the installation of any hardwood flooring product. It is the customers responsibility to ensure the home has a consistent room temperature prior and during the floor installation.
Use of stain, filler or putty stick for defect correction during installation is accepted as normal procedure.
Regardless of whether or not this is your first emergency situation, you are likely at a loss as to what happens next. Top Gun places this process into three critical phases.
Phase 1 – Emergency Response Phase – Average duration is 3 to 7 days
Critical Actions: Responding to the emergency situation and performing work to mitigate the damages as quick as possible. If you haven’t already did so, open a claim with your insurance provider.
Description: The first stage in a fire, flood/sewer back up or storm damage clean up is referred to as “the emergency.” This is the stage whereby the source of the damage is eliminated and/or corrected and the structure and contents are returned to a safe and dry state. The insurance industry commonly refers to the event that caused the damage as “the loss.” The amount of time required for the Emergency Phase depends on the length of time it requires for the structure to dry or be made safe. On average this phase lasts 3 to 7 days unless there are extenuating circumstances.
Phase 2 – Administration Phase – Average duration (2 to 8 weeks)
Critical Actions: Assess the full extent of the damages, fully document the loss and select a contractor to perform repair work.
Description: When the structure is dry and safe, the Emergency Phase is over. At this time, the loss moves into the Administration Phase where the immediate hazards have been handled and the structure has been re-established to a safe and dry condition but NO repairs have been made to the property.
The amount of time for this phase depends on the scope of work and how quickly the insurance responds to your claim. Many times, we are solicited by the insurance company to prepare an estimate and submit for their approval. Sometimes this goes fairly quickly and other times, it has been several weeks before they approve the estimate and scope of work. If your claim is a result of a catastrophic event (e.g. large hail storm or smoke damage from a large fire), additional response time should be expected due to the nature of the amount of personnel that are affected.
Phase 3 – Reconstruction Phase – Average duration (2 to 16 weeks)
Critical Actions: Return the property to pre-loss condition
Description: The Rebuild or Reconstruction Phase is the process by which your property is restored to its original state prior to the loss. During this phase Top Gun works with the property owner to select items such as flooring, paint colors and prepare a production schedule.
Depending on the insurance company, payment may be direct to the contractor or at times they may issue a co-payable check that will require signatures from both parties. In most cases, this does not include the deductible, which becomes your responsibility to pay the contractor directly.
Most people choose wood floors for the ease of cleaning. Regular maintenance includes sweeping with a soft bristle broom or dusting with a dry microfiber mop. If the floor has beveled edges, vacuum with the beater bar TURNED OFF to remove dust from between the floor boards. Clean the floors periodically with a professional wood floor cleaning product recommended by a wood flooring professional.
The National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) recommends the following maintenance schedule:
|Daily||Sweep or dust mop|
|Weekly||Vacuum using the bare floor setting|
|Monthly||Clean with recommended wood flooring cleaner|
|Every 3 – 5 Years||Maintenance coat|
|Every Few Decades||Sand and refinish|
To keep wood floors looking and performing well for generations, follow these guidelines. Individual maintenance schedules will vary depending on use, wear and tear, and lifestyle.
There are other steps that can help maintain the beauty of wood floors.
DO NOT USE vinyl or tile cleaning products on wood floors. Self-polishing acrylic waxes cause wood to become slippery and appear dull quickly.
Use throw rugs at doorways to help prevent debris from being tracked in and scratching the floor.
DO NOT wet-mop or steam mop a wood floor. Water and steam can dull the finish and even damage the wood.
Wipe up spills immediately with a slightly dampened cloth.
DO NOT over-wax a wood floor. If a wax floor dulls, try buffing instead. Avoid wax buildup under furniture and other light traffic areas by applying wax in these spots every other waxing session.
Put stick-on felt protectors under the legs of furniture to prevent scuffing and scratching. Replace these often as dirt and debris can become imbedded on the pad and act like sand paper on the flooring surface.
Avoid walking on your wood floors with sports cleats and high heels in disrepair. A 125-pound woman walking in high heels with an exposed heel nail can exert up to 8,000 pounds per square inch. This kind of impact can dent any floor surface.
When moving heavy furniture, DO NOT slide it on wood flooring. It is best to pick up the furniture to move it and to prevent scratches.
For wood flooring in the kitchen, place an area rug at the kitchen sink.
Use a humidifier throughout the winter months to minimize gaps.
*Information provided by the National Wood Flooring Association
Humidity in Colorado
Colorado and the surrounding mountain states are among the most challenging regions for all wood products because of Colorado’s extremely dry climate. The concerns of relative humidity control have been addressed by all major wood flooring manufacturers and are clearly documented by them as well as the National Wood Flooring Association. Below are some important points to consider before installing:
- It is the responsibility of the homeowner to keep the relative humidity within a constant and acceptable range. Consideration of an appropriate humidification system should be given when a home is designed, or when hardwood flooring is added to an existing home.
- Experts differ slightly on the range they feel is the most appropriate, but a consensus would be between 30% and 40% relative humidity. Any in-home environmental conditions at the low end of or below this range will likely result in drying and cracking to some extent in most wood species. Without additional humidification, in-home relative humidity can drop below 15% during the heating season because our Colorado winters are so dry.
- Even if the atmosphere is generally controlled within this range, there will still be some movement as the seasons change and the relative humidity moves up or down.
- Wood is a natural product and its limits must be respected. Extremely low humidity has a profound effect on properly manufactured and installed wood flooring. Manufacturers do not consider some plank separation or cracking to be defects that would be covered under their warranty.
- Engineered wood flooring is more stable than solid wood flooring and will not shrink or expand to the same degree. However, it is still an all-wood product that will react to swings in humidity.
- Solid wood floors generally will expand and contract more than engineered floors resulting in larger gaps between the flooring boards during dry times of the year.
- Extremely dry conditions (those below 30%) will result in gaps between solid wood planks. The size of the gaps will depend on the size of the planks. The wider the plank, the wider the gap.
- Extremely dry conditions (those below 30%) will also result in gaps between engineered wood planks. However, they will not be as wide. Extremely dry conditions may also result in cupping of engineered planks. (Dry cupping is caused when the top of the board is dryer than the bottom.)
- Extremely dry conditions (those below 30%) may also result in cracks and checking in the surface of both engineered and solid planks. These are not considered defects and are not covered under manufacturer’s warranty.
Hardwood Flooring Types
There are several types of hardwood flooring available in the market which differ from the variety of wood. When choosing a type, it will depend on many different variables which are dependent on the environment, the home, the subfloor and several other variables. To learn about the types, read below.
Solid Wood Flooring
Solid wood flooring comes in three main types. Each type is available in both an unfinished and a pre-finished version. Unfinished flooring must be job-site sanded and finished after installation. Pre-finished flooring is sanded and finished at the factory — so it only needs installation. The three main types of solid wood flooring are:
Strip flooring – This type of flooring is denoted by the thickness and width of the wood planks. Strip flooring has a set width, but the thickness can vary. Strip flooring ranges in thickness from 5/16 of an inch to 3/4 of an inch wide. It is available only in widths of 1 1/2 inches, 2 inches and 2 1/4 inches.
Plank flooring – Plank flooring only comes in two thicknesses, but unlike strip flooring, the widths can vary. It is available only in thicknesses of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch and a range of widths from 3 inches to 8 inches.
Parquet flooring – Parquet floors have a very different look from typical hardwoods. They are made up of geometrical patterns composed of individual wood slats held in place by mechanical fastening or an adhesive.
Engineered Wood Flooring
Engineered wood flooring should not be confused with laminate wood flooring. Engineered flooring is produced by adhering layers of plastic laminate veneer with real wood. The main difference between this type of wood and laminate flooring is that laminate flooring contains no actual wood. Look for more on laminate wood flooring later in this article.
Acrylic-impregnated Wood Flooring
Acrylic-impregnated wood flooring is infused with sealant and color throughout the thickness of the wood. So, what is normally a surface “finish” is actually consistent throughout the wood. This type of flooring is most commonly used in commercial, not residential, projects. This type of floor is very hard and it is highly resistant to moisture and scratches.
According to the World Floor Covering Association, once installed, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference between a solid wood floor and the other wood floors. Solid hardwood strip floors are the most common flooring option, although engineered flooring has become very popular due to its low cost.
Laminate Wood Flooring
According to Floor Shop, laminate flooring is typically constructed with a high-density fiberboard core, sandwiched between a melamine laminate backing, high-quality photographic paper with an image of wood, stone or other natural flooring, and a melamine laminate top. There are a few new hybrid products that replace the photographic paper with a very thin slice of real wood veneer.
There are benefits and drawbacks to both hardwoods and laminate flooring. Hardwood floors can be scratched, but scratches are pretty easy to repair. If a laminate floor is scratched or tears, it is not very easily repaired. Where a hardwood floor can be sanded to remove imperfections, the same is not true with laminate floors. Laminate flooring companies do make touch-up and chip repair kits as well as offer plank replacement. With hardwoods, though, a simple light sanding may do the trick. If you have pets or foresee a lot of scratching and scuffing in your floor’s future, hardwoods may be a better option than laminate.
One of the benefits of laminate over hardwoods is that laminate flooring does not yellow or fade from sunlight or other elements. Most stained wood floors will change color over time. Unlike laminates, though, wood floors can always be restored to their original beauty. On the other hand, laminate floors never need wax or polish. Both hardwood floors and laminates can be affected by excessive moisture, but it is only laminate flooring that can really hold up to being put in a kitchen or bathroom. Rooms that get a lot of moisture are not ideal for hardwoods. Finally, a special padding is required under laminate floors to reduce the floor’s potential for noise. Ultimately, the decision to go with hardwood floors or laminate flooring is best made by examining what’s best for your personal needs.
So, which type of wood floor would be best for you? There are several things to keep in mind when choosing the appropriate type of wood flooring for your home. Solid hardwoods may require a little more upkeep than engineered wood flooring, but they can always be re-sanded and refinished. If maintained, solid wood floors will retain their value better than engineered woods. In addition, deciding between strip, plank or parquet is, for the most part, a question of taste. If you like thin, long planks of wood, you should choose strip flooring. If you prefer the aesthetic of very wide planks of wood, then plank flooring may be your best choice. And, if you have a more decorative look in mind — perhaps a geometric design — parquet floors will be a perfect match for your taste. Remember that plank flooring may require some extra work during installation, and its cost can be higher than strip flooring.
Information provided by howstuffworks.
In most circumstances, unlicensed contractors offer lower quotes because they do not pay a licensing fee, or obtain the necessary insurance to protect their work or their personnel from injury. The major issue for hiring an unlicensed and uninsured contractor transfers the risks to the homeowner. Here’s where you expose yourself to the greatest risk:
Lack of Basic Protection
For contractors to acquire a license demonstrates they have a minimal level of competence in that field. Many different industries have licenses so they have creditability. Would you see a doctor without a license? Would you hire a lawyer that didn’t pass the bar?
Protecting Property Values
Failure to pull a permit doesn’t allow the county or city to help protect you from faulty work. Therefore, when you go to sell your home, specific facts must be disclosed to the buyers. Unpermitted work, especially if it is not to code, could impact the value of the property and failing to disclose information could lead to liability of the seller. If the work isn’t to code, you will have to ensure it complies before a buyer will purchase your home.
Many unlicensed contractors also fail to carry workers compensation insurance. Without workers compensation insurance, the property owner then becomes the employer and is responsible for any injuries or accidents that occur on their property. If someone is injured, a simple project could turn into tens of thousands or dollars in claims.
Protection from Damage to Third Parties
When you hire an unlicensed and uninsured contractor, in addition to the risks mentioned above, the owner also becomes liable for the contractor’s negligence. So if another neighboring property was damaged, the owner may be responsible for the contractor’s actions while they were performing work at their property.
As a Pikes Peak Regional Building Department (PPRBD) licensed contractor, you are hiring a company that has the expertise with understanding building codes and has been approved. Since permits are required for most home improvement projects, Top Gun, as a General Contractor, is able to pull these permits so that your project is filed with the county or city and documented correctly.
We highly suggest keeping the traffic to a minimum and always wear shoes for safety.
The most dangerous thing is allowing it to remain in the home or business. If the water cleanup does not take place immediately, the water causes more havoc in the dwelling by starting to soak into the surfaces such as floors and walls. There is also a risk of mold developing and creating an infestation which may result in the compromising the health of the occupants.
Depending on the location, you should automatically turn off the electricity to prevent electric shock. Avoid walking on wet carpets and flooring, raise curtains and raise furniture using foil or plastic containers on the legs to prevent wicking. Avoid coming into contact with flood waters or sewage as they may contain bacteria, viruses and other hazardous materials. Call us at (719) 572-5130 immediately as we have trained technicians that specialize in this type of work.
A water or sewage leak can create havoc and a lot of damage very quickly. Even though it may appear you have cleaned up the water, there may be a significant amount of non-visible water damage under the floor, inside the walls and other placed not seen by the naked eye. We have specialized equipment that provides us readings to ensure the water has been mitigated and not causing more damage. Our drying equipment and state-of-the-art air movers and dehumidifiers remove the water and help prevent further damage and problems down the road.
Water Mitigation is our specialty! We show up to your location, remove the standing water or sewage and then use our specialized equipment to dry your property. The earlier you call us, the more likely we will be able to salvage your belongings.
Find the water source and turn it off and then call Top Gun immediately (719) 572.5130. We specialize in water mitigation and usually can be there within 90 minutes. The longer you wait the more damage takes place. If you can’t find the water source, we will take care of that also.
A supply line from an appliance, pipe break or blockage in the sewer system are the most common. Other causes are forgetting to properly close the taps, rain storms or improper drainage outside the structure which also may lead to flooding. If the home or business is left unattended for a period of time, it may give an appearance of drying but this might only mean the water has seeped deep into the floors and wall which ultimately causes severe internal damage.